Retinoids For Skin

Sep 16, 2024 | Skin Care

Retinoids are a group of vitamin A derivatives widely used in skincare for their diverse benefits.

They come in various forms, strengths, and delivery methods, making them suitable for addressing various skin issues.

What are Retinoids?

In 1971 the FDA approved a retinoid called tretinoin to treat acne and acne scars.

Vitamin A was also the first vitamin approved FDA as an anti-wrinkle agent that changes appearance of the skin surface and has anti-ageing effects.

Retinoids continue to be used to treat conditions such as acne, acne scars, ageing skin, pigmentation and skin conditions like psoriasis.

Retinoids are available as oral medication or topical lotions, serums and creams.

Oral retinoids are powerful medications and should only be used under the supervision of a GP / dermatologist. They can have significant side effects, and it is important to weigh the benefits and risks before starting treatment.

Main Types Of Retinoids

There are two main types of retinoids.

Prescription Retinoids

Prescription retinoids are stronger and require a doctor’s prescription due to their potential for side effects like irritation and dryness. Examples of these retinoids include tretinoin, adapalene, and tazarotene.

These types of retinoid medication treat mild, to moderate acne in adults and children 12 and older.

Isotretinoin is a prescription medication that treats severe acne and other skin conditions. Also known by the brand name Accutane.

Accutane has significant side effects, including dry skin, joint pain, depression, and birth defects. It is only available under strict conditions and requires pregnancy testing and birth control for women.

Alitretinoin is used to treat skin lesions associated with psoriasis as well as Kaposi’s sarcoma. It helps stop the growth of these cells related to these conditions.

Bexarotene is used to treat cutaneous T-cell lymphoma, a type of lymphoma (cancer) that attacks the skin.

Over-The-Counter (OTC) Retinoids

Over the counter retinoids are milder versions available without a prescription, often containing retinal and retinol.

Retinal is the strongest version of vitamin A whereas retinol is weaker. Both are used as anti-ageing ingredients which are found in serums and skin creams. Retinol can be tolerated better for individuals with sensitive skin.

How Vitamin A Derivative’s Work?

Retinoids promote keratinocytes proliferation; stimulating skin cell turnover.

They strengthen the protective function of the epidermis and restrain trans epidermal water loss.

Retinoids protect collagen against degradation and inhibit metalloproteinases activity. Thus, collagen production, and blood vessel formation are preserved and can even be regenerated.

Retinol stimulates activity of fibroblasts and increases their number to synthesise collagen fibres and improves skin elasticity.

Retinoids also influence the function of melanocytes, providing regulation of melanin in the epidermis. They also inhibit melanin to epidermal cells and diminish the activity of stimulated melanocytes.

What Skin Types Can Retinoids Help?

Even though retinoids started as an anti-acne medication and still used widely for unclogging cores, preventing acne, and healing acne scars they also have other powerful qualities when applied to the skin.

Retinoids offer a wide range of benefits for various skin concerns such as:

Acne
Retinoids reduce the amount of sebum secreted by the skin, thus reduce the tendency to form blackheads. They unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and promote faster cell turnover, leading to clearer and smoother skin.

Anti-ageing
Vitamin A and its derivatives, particularly retinol, are substances slowing the ageing process most effectively. By stimulating collagen production and reducing fine lines and wrinkles, they can contribute to a more youthful appearance.

Hyperpigmentation
They can lighten dark spots and even out skin tone by promoting cell turnover and reducing melanin production.

Sun Damage
They can help reverse some sun damage and improve skin texture.

How To Use Retinoids?

Prescription retinoids instructions must be followed implicitly by your GP / dermatologist.

Over the counter retinoids must be introduced with a low concentration and apply it gradually to minimise irritation.

Here’s a guide:

The best retinol for you depends on your skin type, reactivity, and experience with retinol: 

If you’re new to retinol or have sensitive skin, start with a low concentration like 0.01% or 0.03%. More experienced users can try concentrations up to 0.1% or 1%. 

Cream-based retinol products can help with dry skin because they contain more moisturising ingredients. 

Use a retinol specially formulated for the under-eye area, as general formulas can be too harsh. 

Overall retinoids can be drying, so regular moisturising is crucial.

Retinoids make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so daily sunscreen use with SPF50 or higher is paramount.

Retinoids can be powerful but require patience and consistency for best results.

Consulting a GP / dermatologist or aesthetician can help you choose the right product and ensure safe and effective use.

Available Treatments & Homecare

Individuals who have experienced acne symptoms or ageing skin would benefit from treatments and homecare products that contain retinoid ingredients.

With over 35+ years, The Emporium Treatment Clinic senior aesthetician, Angela is able to help you to take the appropriate measures. So why not pop in and visit us in Marylebone, London, if you feel you need a consultation.

Contact Angela For A Free Chat

07930661971

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    Author: Angela Taffinder the founder of Emporium Treatment Clinic. A practising Aesthetician for 35+ years, holistic and wellbeing advocate and yoga instructor.

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